Kartoffelpuffer (Crispy Potato Pancakes)

When researching traditionally vegan recipes, some countries could fill entire encyclopedias. My motherland, Germany, is more of a slim volume. Still, tucked within those pages is an old favourite that deserves a moment in the spotlight, and it shines in its simplicity.

Crispy potato pancakes are beloved all across the country. In the Rheinland they’re called Reibekuchen; head south and you’ll hear Kartoffelpuffer or Reiberdatschi. By any name, they’re best served with homemade Apfelmus (German apple sauce) – a street food classic and fairground snack, especially at Christmas markets or Oktoberfest.

Nowadays, they’re often made with eggs, but it’s likely that the earliest versions were naturally plant-based, born during times of food shortages. Potatoes were cheap, reliable and abundant, while eggs were a luxury few could afford. Out of those times came a humble dish that still delivers comfort in every crisp, golden bite.

Tips for the perfect Kartoffelpuffer

Potatoes: You want to strike a balance between floury potatoes that have enough natural starches to hold the mixture together – especially since this recipe is not using eggs – and waxy potatoes that hold their shape without turning mushy in the centre. In Germany, most cooks use “vorwiegend festkochend” varieties, which are potato varieties that hit the sweet spot between floury and waxy. I like Yukon Gold or Butter Gold varieties here in the UK.

Color: Without eggs, it’s ideal to use potatoes with a golden flesh to give the pancakes a pleasant colour. It’s also important to move quickly – don’t let the mixture sit for too long, because the potatoes will oxidise and turn brown. If you have to delay the process for whatever reason, you can mix in a little bit of lemon juice to avoid oxidation.

Flour: It’s common to find recipes with added flour, though this can make the pancakes stodgy and it’s really not necessary if your potatoes are starchy enough. I’d recommend trying it without first – you can always add a little bit of flour if they don’t seem to hold together.

How to make Kartoffelpuffer (Step-by-Step)

Peel and finely grate the potatoes into a medium bowl. Place a sieve over a separate bowl and tip in the grated potatoes along with any liquid, then use your hands to squeeze out as much water as possible.

Return the potatoes to the first bowl and set aside the strained liquid, taking care not to move it too much.

Meanwhile, peel and finely grate the onion, squeeze out as much liquid as possible and add it to the potatoes along with the salt.

Discard the squeezed out liquid of the potatoes but keep the starchy sediment that has settled at the bottom of the bowl. This is pure potato starch. Add it back to the potatoes and give everything a mix until the starches are evenly distributed.

Heat a generous amount of oil in a wide frying pan over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, reduce the heat to medium-low, then add a heaped tablespoon of the mixture and flatten it gently with the back of the spoon into a thin round about 1/2 cm thick. Continue filling the pan this way until it can hold no more (4 Kartoffelpuffer at the same time is ideal), then fry for 4-5 minutes until the edges begin to turn dark golden.

Flip them over and fry for 4-5 minutes on the other side until deeply golden and crisp, adding more oil if necessary.

Drain on kitchen paper and repeat with the rest. Any fried pancakes can be kept warm on a lined tray in a 100°C oven.

Serve hot with apple sauce or Sauerkraut on the side.

Other Potato Recipes You Might Like

• Kartoffelsalat: Swabian Potato Salad Without Mayo
• Pão de Queijo: Vegan Brazilian ‘Cheese’ Bread

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Kartoffelpuffer (German Crispy Potato Pancakes)

Crisp edges, roasted aromas and rich potato flavour – these German potato pancakes are comfort food at its best.

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Prep TimeActive Time 50 minutes minutes

Total TimeTotal Time 50 minutes minutes

ServingsServings 4 as a side

Cook ModePrevent your screen from going dark

Ingredients 

US CustomaryMetric

 

1x2x3x

• 800 g all-purpose potatoes (ideally golden in colour, such as Yukon Gold)
• 1 medium onion (150g)
• 1 tsp salt (7g)
• Neutral oil for frying (I used mild olive oil)
• Apple sauce (to serve), optional
• Sauerkraut (to serve), optional

Instructions 

1. Peel and finely grate the potatoes into a medium bowl. Place a sieve over a separate bowl and tip in the grated potatoes along with any liquid, then use your hands to squeeze out as much water as possible. Return the potatoes to the first bowl and set aside the strained liquid, taking care not to move it too much.
2. Meanwhile, peel and finely grate the onion, squeeze out as much liquid as possible and add it to the potatoes along with the salt.
3. Discard the squeezed out liquid of the potatoes but keep the starchy sediment that has settled at the bottom of the bowl. This is pure potato starch. Add it back to the potatoes and give everything a mix until the starches are evenly distributed.
4. Heat a generous amount of oil in a wide frying pan over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, reduce the heat to medium-low, then add a heaped tablespoon of the mixture and flatten it gently with the back of the spoon into a thin round about ½cm thick. Continue filling the pan this way until it can hold no more (4 Kartoffelpuffer at the same time is ideal), then fry for 4-5 minutes until the edges begin to turn dark golden. Flip them over and fry for 4-5 minutes on the other side until deeply golden and crisp, adding more oil if necessary.
5. Drain on kitchen paper and repeat with the rest. Any fried pancakes can be kept warm on a lined tray in a 100 °C (212 °F) (80 °C (176 °F)) oven.
6. Serve hot with apple sauce or Sauerkraut on the side.

Video

Notes

Storage: Refrigerate leftover cooked potato pancakes for 3-4 days in an airtight container. You can also refrigerate the leftover mixture before cooking for 1-2 days, though it will absorb moisture and likely result in less golden, crispy pancakes.